Displaying items by tag: ageing

    About four weeks ago, a friend of mine dropped by to learn how to make cheese. So for that lesson, I chose to make Brie from 18L of store bought milk and some cream.

    It sounds simple enough, but I learned that in cheese making (aside from sanitation), there really aren't any real rules that can't be bent, perhaps, even broken. Let me explain.

    So Brie is famous for the white bloomy rind that grows on the surface. This is usually a combination of Penicillium Candidum (a mould) and Geotrichium Candidum (a yeast). It's this surface that makes aging Brie difficult, not the make itself. The make is actually at the easier end of the scale. It's just the conditions have to be right for it to grow.

    Most home cheese makers put their "Candidums" (Penicillium/Geotrichium) in the milk during the make and this is called the "inoculation" method. However, it is also possible to add it after the make using the "spray on" method. This method is popular in industrial cheese making because you can get away with using less culture for similar results. Running from the Brie recipe supplied from my course, I started up the make as I do every time, and got to the point of adding the cultures. Only to discover that I had used up my Penicillium Candidum. <cue panic stations here>.

    So I did the only thing I could do, and that was adjust my Geotrichium Candidum to replace the Penicillium Candidum culture and carry on about my business. Continuing on unabated until the wheels were drying for 24 hours, and my friend had well and truly gone home for the day.

    However, in the division of attention between teaching and actually doing, I had scooped curds into a variety of cheese moulds/baskets, then ran out of curds. Some wheels drained more whey than I anticipated, so I had a 250mm wide, 10mm high wheel of Brie that I called "the pancake". The two small 10cm wheels and one 160mm wheel were fine, but the 250mm ones were a little short... so I shamelessly stacked thin ones onto others to build up the height. 

    During that relatively quiet time of drying wheels, I was flipping through the instructions and the supplementary materials. In it, the recipe clearly stated:

    "Keep the Geotrichium Candidum to an absolute minimum...."

    It was at this point, I actually stated "Oh poop". I said it again, when I found an unused container of the Penicillium Candidum, right after dry rubbing salt onto my cheeses.

    Bring on the spray solution!

    So using one of my other cheese making books, I made a solution of distilled water and Penicillium Candidum culture, put it in a "spritzing" bottle, and started spraying it onto the wheels so that they were damp, but not wet.

    Keeping the wheels on mats inside tupperware containers, inside the wine fridge at 10 degrees actually worked quite well, although the mould development was a little slow at 14 days, flipping once every day.

    Normally, this is where people would wrap the wheels in "cheese paper" and then put the wheels in a regular fridge for the second stage of ageing. However, I didn't have paper that big, so I just continued to flip them in the container, once a day, and kept the wheels at 10 or so degrees.

    This is a dangerous thing... for thicker wheels. However, the "pancake" was ready in just two weeks.... and it was amazing.

    Larger wheels take longer to age, and Brie ages from the outside of the wheel and slowly softens the internal paste into a ripened "goo" called the "Cream line". However, you can't make a wheel too big since there's a point where the cheese starts to disintegrate on the outside before the inside is done. For this reason, you'll find most Brie and Camembert styled cheeses in wheels only 1-1.5 inches high.

    As the larger wheels became ripe, the mid sized wheels were ready in 4 weeks or so, and the largest was ready in 5. Unfortunately, I was all "Bried out" by that time, and none of my friends wanted any more either.

    Here's my "Brie Pacman". This wheel was finished earlier than the other big ones (but after the pancake) due to the thin 2cm height. This wheel was probably about 20cm wide. This cheese is fully ripened, as the cream line has replaced any paste that was in the middle. This cheese was almost a Brie soup, delicious and ran everywhere.

     So this is probably going to be our new "Easter Tradition" (at least, that's what I want). If Easter is about new beginnings and a new lease on on life, surely cheese is a better metaphor than chocolate?

    Good luck with your Easter and cheese making endeavours, whether you are a person of faith or not.

    Ham.

    Published in Cheese Making
    Tagged under
    Sunday, 24 May 2020 11:01

    Making some Quark

    Published in Cheese Making
    Tagged under
    Saturday, 02 May 2020 01:11

    Dimensional Dramas of Cheese Making.

    It might be something that only hits the hobbyist cheese maker at the last possible minute. You spend hours, even days making one type of cheese, so you want to get the best 'bang for buck' ratio you can. Looking at all those huge 200Kg wheels of cheese waiting patiently to be cut up at the local delicatessen/cheese monger/fancy food establishment, a cheese making hobbyist might just think a seemingly simple little thought "I could go bigger too", and dream of somewhat more impressive 2Kg, or 5Kg, or even larger wheels.

    What a journey that innocuous thought has created....

    Dear reader, in this self-isolating time, I may have gone a little more nuts than is probably warranted. In the past two months, I've made:

    • 20L of milk into two small Parmesan wheels.
    • Another 20L of milk into Pepato, (one medium wheel)
    • 10L of milk into Swiss. (medium)
    • Another 20L into Parmesan. (one bigger wheel)
    • 20L into Jarlsberg (Two medium wheels)
    • 22L into Gruyere infused with black garlic. (an even bigger single wheel, weighing in at just under 2.9Kg).

    Looking at the general trends, I'm definitely getting bigger, and there are definite advantages:

    1. Making bigger batches means I can make twice, three times, even four times the amount of cheese with only modest amounts of extra time and effort (well... there's extra cleaning.. and a corresponding amount of time will be needed when brining, but not much else).
    2. Making bigger wheels are more space-efficient in the wine fridge.
    3. Bigger wheels may take longer to age or allow the cheeses to be aged longer, allowing greater flexibility on the consumption date.
    4. Surface problems like unwanted moulds are far less likely to reach the bulk of the cheese internally.
    5. It's generally harder to excessively dry a large wheel. This prevents cracking/crumbling... unless you put it in a dry environment for particularly long periods of time. Still not recommended though.

    However, there are down sides, which I've mentioned before in other articles. But the one that brings this particular blog post to life is the dimension of my last cheese. The 2.9Kg Gruyere.

    While I'd love to tell you that I love waxing my cheeses. The truth is that waxing only suits the harder cheeses. While Gruyere fits into this category, I used a particular recipe which incorporates "Propionic Shermanii" culture, the culture which creates the bubbles or "eyes" in Swiss style cheeses.

    Cheeses made with Propionic Shermanii will swell up during the first phase of the aging process. As such, wax is likely to crack and not work very well as a moisture and microbe barrier. To make matters a little more interesting, I've infused black garlic throughout the cheese, and during the pressing phase, this has breached the surface all over the place. In short, the rind has many breaches. To stop unwanted mould from growing, I need to basically spray the entire surface of the cheese with vinegar, remove as much air as possible from the surface, and seal it up while providing the cheese enough room to expand.

    It is for this reason, despite my general abhorrence toward the excessive use of plastic, that I break down and use vacuum sealed plastic for this sort of case. Ok, so that's the solution, why bring this up as a separate post?

    My larger wheel is too wide to fit in the standard 28cm wide roll of plastic that my Food Saver can handle. Interestingly, it's extremely difficult to get a wider vacuum seal bags/rolls. When the bag is wider, the length is often significantly shorter. So when you need something that's 35cm x 40cm... or more on each dimension, you're not going to find that outside of industrial machines. Even if you could, many of the commercial sized bags will only work on commercial machines. You see most home-sized vacuum sealers need a textured bag, and the commercial machines use smooth bags, and use other means (usually higher temperatures) to melt the bag closed.

    Ham's cheap-ish attempt at an improvised solution.

    At present the cheese is in a large, dry-curing bag that I'd normally use in my more meat-oriented endeavours, but I used a sous vide trick of submerging most of the bag (except a small opening in the zip lock seal) to use the water pressure to squeeze a decent amount of the air out. This was then sealed it up. However, I don't think this is going to work long term.

    The longer term, but still improvised solution:

    Now I could just buy an industrial sized machine, and buy the bags to fit. Obviously that would work, but that is a very expensive way to go. Some of these vacuum sealers cost thousands. I don't make enough large cheeses to justify that kind of expense, so my solution:

     

    Buy the home-sealer-friendly, but larger 45cm x 6M roll, and use my existing machine.

     

    Before you ask: "How will that fit in a 28cm wide Food Saver?" 

    Ham's plan to use a wide roll in a standard vacuum sealer

    By sticking 28cm or so in at a time. Using the vertical (grey) image, depicting a wide section of plastic roll. The procedure is as follows:

    By using the seal-only function (not vacuum then seal function) on the vacuum sealer:

    1. Sealing the corners somewhat diagonally. You may need to cut off the corners first (indicated in blue), so the machine will allow it.
    2. If the corner seals don't cross over in the middle, (like the top edge in the diagram) trimming the corners off (if not done already) and sealing the middle (like the bottom edge of the diagram) may be done.
    3. Put the large piece of meat/cheese/whatever inside the bag using the unsealed end now! (It won't go in afterwards).
    4. Seal the bottom corners, cutting off if needed. Important, leave a gap between the sealed corners for the final sealing (marked red on the image)
    5. Again, trim the bottom corners off (still marked blue) to allow the sealer to finish with a "suck and seal" as normal.

    Using the "vacuum then seal" function:

    1. Stick the (now skinny enough) unsealed end (still marked red) into the food saver, allow it to suck the air out, and then melt the final seal in place. All done!

    It's obviously a more involved process, but I think it'll work. I'm waiting for the delivery of the new rolls, and I'll update this when I give it a go.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Post delivery update:

    Well it actually worked! However, I must warn you that this is a very fiddly way to do this. It took me nearly 20 minutes to convince the machine to do this. Oh, and you know how I put that step 3 in bold... Yeah I missed that the first time. The good news was that I remembered it as the very next seal was still hot, so I just peeled it back open.

    Here I'm about to do the final seal. (Open end is on the right) So this bag is upside-down, relative to my drawn diagram above. The bag looks like a really wonky heptagon in real life. At the left, you can see the cross over of seals that would be at the top of the diagram above. At the top-right, you can see the double seal where I undid and redid the seal there.
    Here's the final, vacuumed sealed roll. In this image, the last seal is at the left. I went around resealing with a second line of sealing, to be safe. It took a very long time to suck all the air out, perhaps leaving the opening a little wider would have facilitated that.

    So now you know how to seal a 450mm wide roll in a 280mm wide sealer. Sounds like a square peg really does fit in a round hole, doesn't it?

    In case you're wondering where I got the wider rolls from, (because I couldn't find it on eBay, or the usual haunts). I ordered them from from a Aussie supplier over in Western Australia called La-va. They sell higher-end vacuum sealers and accessories. You can find the link to the rolls here:

    https://la-va.com.au/product-page/e-vac-structured-standard-vacuum-seal-rolls/

    Note: Just remember that most household vacuum sealers need the textured/structured kind of bags. If they are just clear plastic, they are for commercial sealers, and won't work in your machine.

    Stay safe and have fun!

    Ham.

     

    Published in Cheese Making
    © 2022 WaywardHam.net. All Rights Reserved.