A bread proofer is especially handy during winter or for those in colder climes.
Fancier models of ovens actually incorporate a proofing feature. There's also the Brod & Taylor "Bread Proofer" appliance which I have owned for years, and it also works very well. That said, neither case is for everyone.
The problem is, that this feature, in an oven can add hundreds if not thousands to the price of an oven. Similarly, the stand-alone bread proofer is still well over $400 Australian. There are some really nice features like the fact that it folds down into a into a tiny space, and can be used for other things, but if you're just baking bread... you don't actually need to spend that much.
Whether you're just beginning your bread baking journey, or you've been "struggling with sluggish doughs" for a while. A bread proofer can make a world of difference.
A DIY proofer, is not only a great way to save money, but you can build it to suit your tastes, and perform just as well as commercial options... if not better!
Key components of any DIY bread proofer
There are four key components for an efficient DIY bread proofer. These are:
- A temperature controller,
- A reptile/seedling heating mat,
- A cake/cookie cooling rack to raise the dough off the heat mat (for even, gentle heating)
- A sealable (or close to it), insulated container,
- large enough to fit your usual bowls/bannetons in with the heat mat, drying rack, and
- can allow the cords in so the sensor/power cords don't compromise the internal environment. (no big holes)
Note: The container can be anything. Some use up-turned clear plastic storage boxes, some use eskies/coolers/chilly bins. Others use polystyrene fruit boxes (free at fruit stores, don't get it from fish markets) and others use zippered insulated bags, or even old fridges. Whatever works for you!
Let's start with the temperature controller!
Here's the Inkbird ITC-308, it's a reliable temperature controller that I've used for years in my cheese making.
I really like how easy it is to set up. However, just be warned that you need to carefully assess your settings. If the temperature deviates too far off the set point (heat mat's been unplugged for instance) you can get a nasty alarm in the middle of the night. Just keep this in mind
Want something better than the commercial proofer?
Spend a few dollars more, and you get Wifi control, and app support.. that you probably could integrate into your smart home/Alexa/Google Nest/whatever.(Not even $4000 ovens have this capability... that I'm aware of)
A seedling/reptile heating mat is a cheap and perfectly suited heating system for a proofer. They come in different sizes, and corresponding wattages (bigger = more watts). If you're looking for something comparable with the Brod & Taylor commercial proofer, then I'd recommend a 20-40W mat.
However, it's best practice to get one that covers as much of the container's floor as possible for the most even heating, and most responsive heating system.
Some heat mats have "Just a switch", while others have some "temp control" (but it's neither accurate nor necessarily reliable.. hence the other temp controller. If it's cold enough where you live to justify making a proofer, don't bother with anything less than 20W.
While seedling heat mats work exactly the same way, I haven't found many that are as cost effective as the reptile mats. However, your area might have better deals, so you'll need to do your own research.
Aaaaargh! Wiring stresses me out!
While there are plenty of temperature controllers that require the stripping of insulation, wiring up mains power-rated cabling to various parts... that could be a real fire or electrical risk. I've chosen this Inkbird because you don't need to do all that.
The most difficult thing is plugging the heat mat into the correct socket on controller. You see, if you're using it to heat a box (as we are), then you need to plug it into the "Heating" socket. If you plug the heater into the "Cooling" socket... it will only turn on when the temperature is too high.. and make it worse (raising the over-temperature alarm). Most likely, it'll never turn on in cold environments.
The reason the controller has separate heating and cooling socket, is that you can choose one device as appropriate... or combine both (with heating and cooling devices) which is really only necessary when precise temperatures must be rigorously maintained. Don't worry, we're not needing all that, heating.. well.. a gentle warming is more than enough.
Even if you don't use this exact temperature controller, there are plenty with two separate outlets for both heating and cooling devices. It simply turns one one as appropriate. The ports are almost always labelled, but if they're not, refer to the controller's manual.
You'll need to configure the settings for the controller too! Once the settings have been configured, you rarely need to interact with this device.
Don't forget to check the heating mat power switch/temperature dial. I prefer using my mat on "full power" so it heats up quickly, and can handle any sudden temperature drops. I leave the temperature management to the controller.
Container options are too broad to discuss here
You're only limited by your imagination. A box (as close to sealed as you can get while running the temperature sensor and power cord inside). Insulation can be as simple as a towel thrown over an up-turned plastic box.
While the heating mat should cover as much of the floor as possible. Keep in mind that as the box gets taller the heating becomes less effective, as it draws the heat away from your dough. You really only want a box that's a little taller than you absolutely need.
Naturally, you want to include the height of the mat, the height of the cooling rack, the highest bowl/banneton, and with a little "head room" for any doughs that might have a growth spurt. Add that all together, and you've got a good idea of what you need.
Some key safety warnings before I go.
Running cables through "tight spaces" can be dangerous if they wear the wire's insulation down, or stain the cables. You don't necessarily need "hermetically sealed", just enough to stop draughts (is that "draft" in the U.S?) and the dough from drying out.
Now the heat mat is an electrical device, that is not meant to be immersed (or even subjected to) liquid water. If you keep a small container of water to maintain humidity, you really only need a table spoon to do that.
I generally try to keep all the wiring and heat mat away from anything flammable. If I have to use a upturned baking sheet on the bench, then stack heating mat, cooling rack, dough container, etc and move all the insulating towels from the cabling, it gives me piece of mind. Adding an RCD (safety switch) to the unit also adds safety should there be an electrical issue.
In short, think about it, use common sense, and be as safe about it as possible, you'll be fine!
Here's some variations made online:
The first two videos (left and middle) are DIY jobs like discussed above. The third (right) video shows you more of the commercially-available range of proofing options for you to compare it to (and shamelessly copy from if you'd like to make your own).
All the best in you bread proofing endeavours, whether that's using a bought proofing device, or making your own.
Ham.