Ham's recommended toolbox ideas 1: For those just starting out (pretty version)

So you (or someone you know) want(s) to set up a new toolbox to get you/them through your/their DIY urges? Now, like I've said in my blog section. Everyone has their idea of "essential" tools for the tool box. However, an appropriate selection of tools will vary from person to person, based on their needs, their goals, and skills/space/financial/better-half approval limitations.

Now there are some fantastic guides out there that do a "tool box" for $250, $500, $1000, $2000, & $5000. Honestly, I wonder whether people with $5000 or more to burn really need a guide, but I suspect some people will dive right in without doing their research. If I had to sum it up simply, I'd say, "start small, and work your way up as you need it".

Things are simple when you are just talking about a small tool box with some basic tools. However, over time the slippery slope of tool accumulation can occur, and a tool box becomes a tool trolley, a tool trolley becomes an entire workshop. Do you really have the space for all that? I'm just trying to ensure you don't cause some sort of drama in your household when you start siphoning off funds, or your better half's car space, your daughter's room, or your in-laws "granny flat" for your endeavours.... however much you might want to!

If you're starting from scratch, you might see a premade toolbox with anything from thirty to hundreds of "pieces", all in a shiny toolbox or even tool trolley.

A prebuilt option like this might suit some people, but like everything, there are cheap kits, expensive kits, and everything in between.

Many "high end" kits are designed for specialist fields like automotive/mechanic work, electrical work, plumbing, or some other specialist field that needs a certain mix of tools. These kits are designed and aimed at apprentices who need tools to just start out. However, these are beyond the average DIYer, as they can cost thousands.


To someone who's just starting out as a home DIYer, you simply do not need all that. You just want a simple kit and a modest price. I'm talking about the ususal pre-made kits that cost somewhere between $75-250 (Australian).

What do you mean by a "piece" in these kits?

That's actually a good question. Some kits "pad" their numbers to make it seem like you're getting a lot of tools for the money. (Particularly at the cheaper end). So it helps to understand what you're really getting.

In some kits, the tool box may (or may not be included), sometimes a case/holder that contains a bunch of tools (or attachments) within the toolbox is also included in that number. While I consider tools, and parts of tools that come in various sizes (drill bits, sockets, and screwdriver bits) as valid "pieces", sometimes you'll get weird consumables, like 50 screws, or 20 sheets of sandpaper is included in the "piece count" in lower priced kits.

So let's have a look at a pre-built toolbox, and let me explain what I think and why...

If you try to please everyone, you'll please no one. Premade boxes are a "one side fits all" product that's often plagued by this concept.

While it can be a cheap way to get a bunch of tools. The people who design premade tool boxes throw in a range of tools they think will help as many people as possible. However, with more "generalised kits", and especially those sold at lower price points, they have to make some tough compromises.

On one side, they can choose to include a few good tools with numerous gaps, that you'll have to buy later as needed. On the other side, they include a lot of cheap tools and this will invariably leave you with lots of stuff you probably don't need or even use. The tools that you do need and use will probably wear down and need replacing quickly because they're used heavily and were built "on the cheap".

Other issues with these kits

• There's no included safety gear. (You really don't want cheap/ineffectual safety gear).
• You're already starting to fill your tool box, so storage of additional tools is an issue.
• No cutting or sawing capability whatsoever in this kit, and often... if it is included, it's pretty... cheap and nasty.
• Your needs might differ wildly from the kit, so it becomes false economy if you have to address all that. Basic wood working, lawn mower maintenace, craft work, and home maintenance, while they may have some common tools, each field needs some diverging tool selections as well.

Knowing this, is it really so hard to pick your own tools? Probably not. Although it can be expensive if you aren't careful.

Firstly, don't panic at the images below. Many have four, five, or even more examples of recommended items. I've included pictures of so many to:

• Show that there are variations of each recommended item.
• Help you to find similar items in your area.
• Raise your awareness of how each variation might be best used.
• Aid my explanation about why a bigger, smaller, cheaper, or versatile model might (or might not) be a good choice for a beginner.

I'm not expecting (or recommending) that you buy all variations of every type of every item. Pick the ones you're most likely to need now. You can always come back and add more when you need to. Don't rush out, ok?

Finally, don't be afraid to ask relatives, friends, if they have any old unused tools that they've outgrown. You'd be surprised by how many people have tools that belonged to husbands, grandparents, friends who moved overseas, etc... and they're not really sure what to do with them.

Even basic kits vary in overall price...

This kit is designed to be the bedrock from which all other packages extend out from. While this is a basic kit. The cost can vary considerably. Some of you will buy everything on the cheap just to get started and that's completely ok. Some of you will buy higher quality equipment for heavier duty, more flexible setups, and that's ok too. Some of you will drop more cash on the tools they use a lot, and opt for low cost options for stuff you might not use much. You can see how a "basic" kit can vary wildly in price from one person to another.

Now I don't know what specific DIY tasks you want to be able to do today, tomorrow, or next year, but the items suggested here will almost certainly help. Feel free to pick and choose from the list below:

Safety is about both having and using safety equipment.... along with safe practices when DIY-ing of course. :-)

Some stuff to remember:

• Store your safety gear somewhere dust/chemicals won't accumulate when not in use.
• Keep this stuff out of reach of kids, pets, and anyone suffering from compulsive cleaning disorder. They'll move it somewhere, you won't be able to find them, and then you'll be tempted to do "that one little task" without them. This, is when Murphy's Law strikes... at the worst possible time.

DIY activities generate a lot of noise. Whether that's hammering in nails, the scream of a circular saw, the high-pitched whine of air rushing through a shop vacuum, or the half-deaf guy who's cranked the work site radio to 11 to dull out the painful ringing in his ears.

Noise is a serious problem, and it's one that sneaks up on you... usually when the damage has already been done. Even seemingly moderate volumes, with long exposure can do damage.

Whether you're spreading fertilizer on the garden, sanding, grinding metal, mixing fine powders, routing wood, or spray painting, you'd be surprised how much stuff that's either flung into your face directly, or floats on the air for sometimes hours while you sit there, breathing it in.

Let me be the first to tell you, breathing tiny airbourne particles, even natural wood fibres can be very hazardous to your health. The overspray of spray paints, and welding fumes can be significantly worse due to the chemicals involved.

Take the time to learn about the appropriate gear for your task. You'll find the paper filter masks can help with sanding dust, dirt, and even spray paint (not the fumes) to some degree, but only when you get a good seal on your face. The welding fumes... not so much. But every bit helps!

Here's a useful video explaining the differences between each type of commonly used masks:



Of course, you can go to air tanks, and breathing apparatus for chemical exposure but that's not what I'm suggesting in the beginning with a kit like that. Let's have a look at a few (common) options.

Whether it's to avoid splinters, hold something that gets hot, prevent electrocution, reduce chemical exposure, make sure you choose the right gloves for the job.

Obviously cuts from sharp objects, crush injuries (hammered finger anyone?), burns from hot blades, and the ever-present threat of splinters is present in wood working. Also, nasty chemicals, epoxy glues, solvents, etc can be used in a variety of DIY and cleaning tasks. The gloves you wear can be suited for some tasks, while a liability in others. Never forget, that there's usually some loss of dexterity when working with gloves. Thicker isn't always better.. if it causes you to fumble in a key moment.

It's worth noting that while some gloves are geared toward a particular type of task, some may be suited for more than one purpose. Leather gloves may be great for welding, but also jobs where heat, or spinters may be a risk too. Conversely, some gloves will be great to avoid risks like exposure to caustic materials.. but increase risk of melting if heat gets involved.

Consider the use carefully, and buy an appropriate pair of gloves. Some will be disposable, while others will last you years. Sometimes it's cheaper to buy a quality pair than continually purchase disposable options.

Whether you're going through a blackout, or just have your head in the ceiling/basement crawlspaces, being able to see is safer than not. Phones have lights, but they're not powerful, nor do they last very long if you like long conversations about why you're sitting in the dark. (Metaphorically or literally)

I really like LED torches for power efficiency. However, torches vary in size, weight, and brightness, so you need to ensure you get a decent one. I'm a big fan of the CREE LED torches, which offer a good performance/price mix. However, a cheap LED torch will often still be miles better than most phones.

Why rechargeable batteries?

They're basically a one and done deal... especially if you buy them with a charger. Then you have a charger, maybe a few spare batteries to use in your remotes, or wireless doorbell, smoke alarms or toys. I just don't understand people who buy single use batteries anymore. Especially when a rechargeable battery can be charged hundreds of times before it dies. If you multiply the cost of single use batteries by three or four, you generally get the price of rechargeables. I'm a big fan of the Eneloop rechargeable batteries, as they have lasted me for years. They're not the cheapest rechargeables though.

"Measure twice, cut once!", a common wood working saying that goes way back.

Measuring should indeed come before all the cutting tools, so here it is, right after personal safety.

You'll be measuring a lot. However, there's many ways to do that. At the basic end of the range, are your venerable tape measure, and ruler.

However, measuring isn't going to be much help if you don't mark where to cut, drill, join, or carve... so marking is also a feature worth discussing in this section.

Measuring is going to be one of the most common activities for any DIY-er. You can probably find a tape in a $2 shop, but you'll find better quality in hardware stores. If you're making furniture, a 5m (16.4ft) tape will do. If you're measuring out rooms, or building larger projects, then a longer and higher quality tape is advisable. 8-10m (roughly 26-33 feet) is usually enough. When buying a measuring tape, get a feel for the tape, check to see if the lock stops the tape from retracting properly. How far can you stick it out horizontally before it collapses. Thicker and wider tapes handle longer distances better, but you either get less tape in a package, or the beast grows in weight and size.

Tape measures are accurate enough for most tasks, usually 0.5-1.5mm out (plus or minus) per metre or so. But they're not precision instruments. The tape is made of metal, and as such, will expand and contract as temperature fluctuates. The greater the distance a tape goes, the more the expansion and contraction add up.

Now before you go "how can that be?". The truth is, that at the DIY level, as projects get bigger, the accuracy generally matters less and less. Does it really matter if a room is 3320mm wide or 3322mm? (2mm different). Most contractors will just fill any gaps, sand it down, and paint over it and move on.

Ever noticed the wobbly hook at the end of the tape?

Every tape measure has hook on the end to run the tape from edges. Every tape hook has a little bit of wobble or play (doesn't matter how good the brand is, or how much you paid for it). This is loosness/wobble is intentional.

If you're hooking the tape on the outside edge of something, and pulling the tape to the opposite edge, you're measuring from the inside edge of the hook, so the tape has to align with that.

If you're pushing the hook against a surface, the inside edge of the hook isn't going to be where you need to be measuring from. So the tape has to be able to move closer to the hook to compensate for the thickness of the hook. The hook shortens slightly as it's pushed against the tape, this compensates for the thickness of the hook when measuring from the outside edge.

So don't try to "fix" a loose tape measure hook.

If I had to say which measuring device I use most, this would be it. I just find that it's easier to manoeuvre in small spaces, mark lines out on timber, and there's literally no wobbly hook to impact readings, very little expansion/contraction, and they're usually made with a high degree of precision.

Being machined steel, it's useful as a straight edge indicator, great for cutting straight lines with a box cutter without risking carving chunks out of your wood/plastic ruler. 
The ruler itself can act as an improvised blade for opening boxes/envelopes in a pinch.

Get one where the zero point is on the edge, for easy flush-to-edge reference points, and depth marking. (Great for adjusting depth on saws, drills, routers, and other height-adjustable tools).

You can also get 150mm rulers to keep in pockets, and if you work in dimensions small enough, then that might be a good choice too. However, I'm recommending a somewhat more versatile 300mm for general purposes.

We've talked about two cheap, and effective measuring tools. Now we need to talk about marking out lines, drilling points, mitred and bevelled angles, or just scribbling over your wood so you know which bits you have and haven't sanded.

I basically use a sharp pencil for wood, and a fine-tipped permanent marker (a "Sharpie") for smoother surfaces like plastics, metals, glass, and ceramics.

I don't like using ink based markers on wood as it seeps into the wood, and can go surprisingly deep and then requires sanding. That said, I have to be careful when marking with a pencil on softer woods, as that can also leave dents where marked that's hard to remove.

No matter what you use, make sure your tips are as fine as possible for accurate measurements. That means you need a pencil sharpener, and while you're here, you might as well get a good eraser as well.

Linked with all these pencils and permanent markers, is a sketch pad/book. Draw designs, note measurements down, write detailed shopping and/or cut lists. Write notes to yourself about where you're up to in a project before you leave for a few days. A pad is one thing that is cheap, and amazingly useful, especially if you're working with others, so everyone is literally on the same page.

Fastening means "to attach" or "to hold in place". There are many ways to attach things in DIY projects. In days gone by, the iconic hammer and nails reigned supreme, but now it's usually glues and/or screws holding things together. Of course, nuts and bolts, rivets, elaborate "locking joinery" and many other methods exist too. Each requires differing tools, methods, and skill sets.

While it's not the dominant tool it used to be, the hammer is still a key tool that everyone should have. There are many types of hammer, from tiny "tack" hammers, to full on "sledge" hammers, designed for breaking rocks, walls, concrete, and many other things. Each type of hammer may come in a variety of weights, sizes and sometimes, even shape.

When buying one, pick them up and get a feel for the weight. Obviously, hammering anything in-store is dangerous and likely to get you escorted from the building... however, when it comes to typical household hammer, using small, light "air swings", will tell you which hammer feels best "in hand".

Every home has pictures on the walls, and that often means small nails in the wall to hang them from. If you work on smaller DIY wood working projects, then "tack" nails offer a similar role to "pin" or "brad" nails. While a tack hammer is indeed a good choice for small projects. A more general purpose (slightly larger) hammer is suggested here.

There's always plenty to pry, hit, break, or tap with a trusty claw hammer. So a standard one is a great starting point. When buying, pick them up and get a feel for the weight. Pick one that feels comfortable to you.... and obviously suits the tasks at hand.

Hammering without a hammer....

Interestingly, something that I use even more frequently than a hammer is a rubber mallet, particularly when I'm tapping materials that are easily dented, or marked.

While I'd stop at a claw hammer and maybe a mallet for this kit, there's a ton of things you can add later to use with the hammer. Chisels, nail punches, a vice (for either carving or bending thin metals), along with the usual selections of nails and nail punches of course!

Ok, so while nails are no longer the overwhelmingly dominant fastener they once were, screws have definitely risen in popularity, partly because they're stronger than nails, and removeable, but also because mass production has made them far cheaper than they once were.

Screws come in a huge range, from tiny, fine threaded "machine screws" all the way to 125mm or even 150mm galvanised timber screws. There's also screws for metal sheeting (Often called "Tech screws"), others for treated timbers, some are suited for outdoor use (stainless steel, galvanized, powder coated), while others are best used indoors. All of them need some sort of screwdriver to insert and remove. However, there are literally dozens if not hundreds of differing "heads". Some screws have a simple flat slot to drive the screw, others have a cross (also known as a Philips head), some have a square hole (Robertson head), and others have a hexagonal (Allen or Hex) or star shaped (Torx) hole. Each of these needs a different type of screwdriver, and each of these probably comes in a variety of differing sizes.

Traditional screwdriver sets often have a dozen or so tools which offer the most commonly used options. However, traditional sets are expensive, they often take a lot of room, and when the heads wear down (and they will) you have to replace the whole tool, handle and all.

Enter the "interchangeable bits".

Basically, you still have the screwdriver handle, but it has a hexagonal shaped socket where the head should be. In that socket, you can insert a swappable "bit" that suits a Philips head, or a Torx, or a Robertson into it and swap them out as needed. This offers several advantages over the old screwdriver.

1. You can use the same handle, for any standard bit size you care to name.
2. When the bits wear out, you can just buy the bits you need, which saves money.
3. This is a space saving option. You can buy bit kits with 100 bits in it, that fit in a 200mm x 100mm x 50mm box. Much smaller than an entire toolbox for screwdrivers, that you're always rummaging around, trying to find the right one.
4. You can buy more exotic bits as you need, or in kits to save money.
5. You can use these bits with power tools (drills and impact drivers, for example)

The most commonly used bits in my experience are:

1. #2 Philips head. (Get a few of these) They're used everywhere from door hinges, cabinets, computers, and are one of the most popular types of wood screw.
2. #2 Robertson (square) head. Slowly replacing the #2 Philips, but still not quite as popular. Often seen in heavier duty, outdoor screws of longer lengths, 75-125mm long.
3. #1 Philips head (smaller than the #2) used in a lot of random places like picture frames, some cabinet hinges, sometimes door locks/handles. Small electrical appliances, (for example, the battery lid may have a screw in some remotes), etc.
4. A range of flat head (slot) screwdrivers that fit slots from 3×45mm, 4×75mm, 5×100mm, 6×38mm, 6×150mm, 8×200mm. These may be the oldest type of screw slots (and most problematic) but these screws are still around, and the bits also make useful miniature prybars for paint cans, scrapers, and at a pinch... an improvised chisel.
5. Hex heads (also known as Allen keys).. normally I'd say, get a set of allen keys, but if they're already in the kit you're buying, that's pretty awesome. Especially when used with a drill or impact driver.

The screwdrivers above are great for general DIY, home maintenance, and mid-to-large projects. However, the kit above doesn't really cover the small stuff at all.

If you just want to fix your reading glasses, sunglasses, or small electronic devices, you'd be surprised how often these come in handy. These are particularly useful for people considering getting into basic electronics, Arduino and/or Raspberry Pi based projects.

You can spend as little as $3 on a cheap set, or you can spend hundreds on kits that have loads of special bits. If you want to repair your mobile phone, or laptop, then certain manufacturers (I'm looking at you Apple) have chosen bizarre screws to stop people from playing with them. If that is your goal, you need to have a look at the iFixit range for something that advanced. However, for someone starting out, a small set that costs less than $20 is more than adequate. Again, I find that electronics stores are a better option, as they have quite a variety, and don't cost very much.

Glues have come a long way over the last century or so. In fact, there are glues for almost every occasion, material, and environment. That said, if hammer and nails were representative of wood working a century ago. Glues and screws are where modern wood working is centred.

Is glue really a tool? Well... does it effectively join two or more bits together make or fix things like a screw? Then yes. It's just a consumable tool that's great for construction and repairs alike.

Please note that you have to choose the right glue for the job. There are hundreds. Some take seconds to dry, while others take days. Most are simply a matter of putting "a nice coat" on one or both surfaces, then pressing them together. However, others require mixing to work, others require melting, some only cure under ultraviolet light, and others only cure on wet/moist surfaces.

General gluing:

For most "everyday" gluing, I use either cyanoacrylate (also known as CA, or "Super Glue"). Alternatively, I'll use a polyurethane based glue. (Often described as "General purpose glue").

Super glue works on a lot of stuff, but when dry it is brittle. Meaning sudden shocks, thermal expansion (such as dishwashing repaired dinner plates) or flexing materials will not be best served by CA glue. But it does work well on ceramics, some plastics, wood, and even glass at a pinch. I generally use small one-use (5ml) tubes of 15 second glue for small projects, or where I need a temporary hold while the stronger glue is curing.

The general purpose is for slightly larger projects like model/prototype building, where I am using mixed materials (plastic and metal for instance) and I want a slightly slower to cure, and stronger bond.

Wood working:

The general purpose glue I mentioned above is polyurethane based. This works on wood too, and has one distinct advantage in some wood working projects.

If I intend to use a polyurethane based varnish, any mess/spills I've made with the glue (being made of the same material) will become indistinguisable from varnish. Differing glues/varnish mixtures will leave ugly patches in the wood finish. However, polyurethane glues are expensive so....

There are a variety of wood working glues. Since most of the time, my projects are housed indoors, I use huge quantities of polyvinyl acetate (PVA) white glue. It dries clear, but is also water soluble, (cleans up with a damp rag). Easy cleaning aside, the water solubility means that it isn't great for outdoor furniture. PVA has many names "Wood glue", "Elmer's Glue", "Carpenter's Glue", and weirdly "School Glue" in the U.S. There's also a yellow version (also dries.. mostly clear) that is a bit more "tacky" so it'll hold things a bit better earlier on in the curing process. I don't see it much in Australia. Honestly, PVA with super glue tacking, or just screws/brad nails for faster, more reinforced assembly works very well.

With a 15-30 minute "tack" time and 12-24 hour curing time to reach full strength, PVA gives me plenty of time to assemble, clamp, and if need be, screw my projects together. Watered down, it makes a great (low cost) gloss coat for art projects, as well as a fantastic glue for paper maché. Again, it's not a varnish so it won't protect the underlying wood/paper/paint if it gets exposed to water.

Branded offerings such as the "Titebond" range are variations on PVA. Titebond (a popular brand, particularly in the U.S.) Has "Titebond" versions 2 and 3 for better outdoor/moisture handling performance. They're now available in some hardware stores and specialist woodworking shops in Australia... or online.

Heavy duty gluing:

There are many options but I like to use two part epoxy. It's strong, dries really hard, is entirely impervious to water once cured, and can be dyed, polished, used as gap filler, can be moulded, and even used to decorative effect. However, it takes ages to cure, can be very expensive, is often unforgiving of mistakes and oh so stinky to mix, and difficult to clean up.

Fixing shoes:

Now there are some special requirements (rubbery materials, leather, flexing and various tensions, to name a few) that make other glues a poor choice for this purpose. Now I beat up boots, and wear them into oblivion. Ren buys shoes of cheap-yet-pretty-construction, my neighbur does pro Tango dancing with little straps and sequins.. and I am tasked to fix shoes pretty regularly. Sending these things to a cobbler is not cost effective, my boots are too old for that, and women's shoes just need a dab of glue here and there to survive the three outings a year they get used for.

If you have kids, women in your life, have a shoe obsession, or like me wear your workboots out... shoe glue is very handy.

Whether you have a leaking pipe in your air conditioner. Or you need to temporarily insulate some wires, you've cracked a hose and it's leaking... or you need to stop the bleeding when you've cut your finger, tape holds liquids and electrons in, sometimes even low pressure gases in... and holds things together admirably.

There are many types of tape. Masking tape is great for ensuring crisp edges on painted surfaces beause it "blocks overspray" and it is easy to remove. Masking tape is also great for making labels, since it's easy to write on. Sticky/cello/Scotch tape is great for wrapping presents and parcels, but it doesn't have the insulating properties of electrical tape. Electrical tape is great for wires, low pressure leaks, and conforms to the underlying material, meaning it gets a nice seal, without cutting off flow. For more resilient purposes, "Gaffers" tape, or "Fabric tape" offers a reinforced tape with loads of strength. There are tapes for high or low temperatures, tapes for more permanent bonding, (double sided tape is one example) and of course various forms of medical tape as well.

After screws, glue, and tape, I genuinely believe the next most important fastener (to the beginner DIYer) is the humble "nut and bolt". For sheer strength, few fasteners can match the strength (and removeability) of the bolt. It's not uncommon to have a few around the home, (pergolas, garage doors, barbecues, outdoor furniture, and machinery, just to name a few examples) and if you want to try DIY mechanics, fixing engines, changing lawn mower blades... then some form of spanner is required.

Full sets of spanners (both metric and imperial), and decent socket set is very expensive and space consuming (albeit useful) stuff to buy, but not exactly the basic kit solution needed here. I'd say get two medium-sized shifting spanners at this level. You need two, one to hold a bolt head steady, and the other to adjust the nut. People sometimes do this with pliers or multigrips in a pinch, but it's far from ideal. Even a cheap spanner here will be miles better than a pair of pliers or multigrips for this purpose.

Going beyond nuts and bolts... how about washing machine filter cleaning?

It might seem weird, but sometimes, you need a tool that can close onto a part firmly and fits, but without crushing whatever it is you're trying to move like pliers or multigrips would do. For example, I have a washing machine where the filter is quite.... badly designed. To clean it out, I have to unscrew a deep, cylindrical plastic sump cover. Ostensibly, it's "hand removable" but when the filter gets clogged, this often prevents the cover from rotating... and thus... opening. Yep... it's badly designed.

So I have no choice, but to force it. To make the design even worse... the handle is a hollow 3mm piece of plastic. If I used pliers, I'd crush, and break the handle before I budge the cover. BTW, this is a high-ish end washing machine, designed and built in Germany.. not some cheap no-name brand.

Using two shifting spanners, I close them on each end of the hollow handle where it's closest to the reinforced outer wall of the cap. I adjust the spanners so they are firm-fitting, but not crushing. Then, holding onto both spanner heads (leverage is not our friend here) I use both arms to grip both spanners and carefully rotate the cap.

There really isn't a substitute that's better for this than some shifting spanners. At least, not ones that combined cost less than $50.

Whether it's to cut a piece of string, cardboard, fabric, wood, or metal. Here are some basic tools that will help you to cut a variety of common materials.

Firstly, I have not included wire cutters, as I believe a couple of pairs of pliers (mentioned in the holding section below) can fill this need.

Now please note that you won't be cutting whole trees down, full 2400mm x 1200mm plywood sheeting or foot-thick steel girders with the tools in this basic kit. There's nothing ensuring precision either, as most of these are hand tools. However, simple crafting, cutting thin sheet material, small-to-medium planks of wood and plastic is definitely doable. Similarly, simple shaping, and cutting square and mitred angles should be possible. If you get the sheeting cut down at the hardware store, or if you know a friend with a table saw... there's a lot you can do with this kit.

I've also excluded all gardening a tools (such as pruning saws, secateurs, and hedging shears) and food/kitchen tools (knives, scissors and shears to name a few) as they're not really the focus here. Not everyone has a garden, but almost everyone has a home that needs repairs now and then :-)

Ready to get cutting? Let's go!

Sometimes you just want a pair of scissors. Whether tht's to cut paper, cardboard, vinyl, or string. It's important that you don't siphon off your mothers/better half's prized sewing or cooking scissors for inappropriate purposes (i.e. cutting heavy duty wire, or... as my partner Ren tells me.. any wire... <with tones implying violence>.. Yeah, just don't do it to yourself).

Scissors come in all shapes and sizes. Most people know about sewing, hair cutting, and child-safe scissors (are they really scissors? I think they're toys). However, there are electrician's scissors, titanium scissors, numerous types of shears, and all sorts of weird and wonderful variations that would work well for a toolbox or workshop.

However, some of them get pretty expensive, so find a solid, comfortable pair of scissors, ones that can be tightened up if the blades loosen. That way you won't be "nabbing" scissors from places you shouldn't be.

Here's a useful video (skipping the ad at the beginning) showing the scissors Adam Savage uses in his workshop. He has many, but like I said, you don't need all of these to start with. It's just an interesting reference:

Want a sharp knife and hate sharpening? How about a knife with replaceable blades? Or one where you can snap the blunt bit off and start anew?

Then dear reader, you want a Stanley Knife.... also known as "The box cutter".

At this point, I assume you don't have a workbench. If you're working on the kitchen table, protecting the surface from paints, spills, cuts, gouges, and other damage is probably a good idea.

Cutting mats come in various sizes, colours and varying materials. Most have a grid of some sort, to assist in lining up straight or right angled cuts. Some have two layers that rotate on an axle to help cut circles in a "Lazy Susan" style setup. However, you really don't want the bottom layer sliding around during that task.

A simple one tha's big enough for your needs is all that's necessary. You can find these in art/craft stores, discount "dollar shops", sewing stores, and online.

There are many types of saw, but for this kit, I wanted a saw to be:

1. Cheap and readily available.
2. Be useful for most materials.
3. Have cheap/easily replaceable blades (no sharpening tools required)

Now I know there's always someone who'll disagree with my view, discounting it as personal preference, but for the beginner I recommend the humble 300mm/12" hacksaw.

There are expensive brands, and there are cheap ones. I've seen them run for as little as $7 new, and go up to hundreds of dollars. Interestingly,  there's no consistency about how a saw (by itself) is measured, and some will say 300mm, going by the blade length alone, some will say 305mm, and others will go to 400mm because they're including the length of the handle with the blade... yet they'll all take the same sized 300-305mm blade.

Frankly, I'd spend a little extra (say $20-40 on the saw) as the ones I got were in this range and they've taken a beating for years. Personally, I like to see more metal, rather than plastic construction, but if you're working with electricity, then the extra insulation may be handy.

I like the fact that you can get blades for cutting wood and plastic (generlly larger teeth, or fewer teeth per inch  (TPI) of blade, or cutting metal with finer, more numerous TPI.

Pro tip:

Finally, one advantage of the humble hack saw that some other saws lack...

You can thread the blade through a hole, and cut from the inside, rather than cutting from the outside edge. If you want to make a hole bigger, or a different shape, this can be really handy (and relatively quiet) for working with both metal and wood projects.

To do that:

You can take the blade off the saw, thread it through a hole, reconnect it to the saw and tension the blade, cut from the inside of the hole, then remove the blade from the saw, unthread it from the hole, and reconnect it. You didn't need a Dremel, or a Jig Saw, you simply improvised.. and I can say from experience... it works well for smaller projects like fixing/adapting strike plates to fit new door locks.

There are three differing features that hacksaw blades have that you should be aware of:

1. Blade length.
2. Teeth configuration.
3. Blade material.

Blade length:

The blade length needs to be correct for the saw. It's no good buying a 160mm blade if you have a 300mm saw. It won't reach both ends. Also, it can't be massively longer either. Usually you have some wiggle room (for tension adjustment purposes) so it's not uncommon to see a 305mm blade on a 300m saw, or a 300mm blade on a 305mm saw. But I wouldn't recommend a difference of more than 5mm or so.

Teeth configuration:

The most important thing for beginners to worry about is Teeth Per Inch (or TPI). Basically this is the number of teeth the blade has over 1 inch of length. So 18 TPI has much bigger (and far fewer) teeth than say, a 32 TPI blade.

A lower TPI means the blade is better suited to softer materials (soft woods and some plastics). It will cut quickly, but the cut will be fairly rough as well.

Higher TPIs mean the blade will cut harder materials (usually metals), but will in general cut more slowly, and with a smoother finish.

Blade material:

Cheaper blades tend to be made out of high speed steel (HSS), there are other, more expensive varieties such as "Bi Metal" and "Cobalt alloys" which tend to hold their edge longer, and cut harder materials without significant degradation.

I don't want to give you the impression that cheap blades can't do many things, but they will tend to break more often and dull faster if you "push" them hard enough.

Ok, so you've got a saw, you've got some blades for differing materials. Now you cut some scrap wood (or metal) and you find that you're cutting all kinds of wonky angles and curves.

If cutting a square 90 degree angle seems next to impossible, or you're trying to get your 45 degree cuts for mitred picture frames "right", then you might want to consider the humble mitre box.

You put your wood against the "fence" (the vertical wall of your mitre box), you clamp your piece down, and then you use the handy pre-cut slots in the box to ensure you get a 90 or 45 degree angle.

These are a great way to avoid frustration and unwanted expense. However, you still need to go slow, and ensure everything is going as planned. The mitre box can also get "chewed up" by the saw as the blade grinds against the guiding edges, so they may need replacing down the track when the accuracy of the angles drop.

DIY tasks can often be helped with tools that grip, or hold things in place. Other times, it's simply not possible to bring the necessary grip required to manipulate items with your bare hands.

There are also plenty of occasions where holding things may be hazardous, such as when dealing with sharp objects, heated items, and electrical currents, just to name a few. Whether an object is simply sliding on the table, slipping from your grasp entirely, or you just don't have enough hands to do everything at once, these tools make things safer in general, and easier on your hands.

There are few tools more broadly useful to any DIY task than the humble pair of pliers. Pliers exist in such variety, that there may well be more types in this category of tool than most other kinds.

There are dedicated types of pliers for medical procedures, agricultural fencing, MIG welding, dentistry, telecommunications, electronics, jewellery, modeling, plumbing, metal smelting, aeronautical industries, sewing, automotive mechanics, industrial machinery, and so much more.

Some pliers are straight, some are bent, some are narrow tipped, while others have huge wide jaws. Some do one specific thing, while others do several. Some lock closed, while others have springs to open them up. Some are best at gripping round surfaces while others are great on flatter shapes. Some offer thermal or electrical insulation, while others have none of that.

In short, there's a pair of pliers for every occasion, but you only need a few to have a truly versatile kit.

For small jobs and digging out splinters, nothing can beat the humble pair of tweezers. However, like the pliers, tweezers are used in various industries. From electronics and soldering, to jewellers and crafting workshops, scientific laboratories, surgeries, and operating theatres, and beauticians, personal groomers, and even in artistic endeavours.

You might already have some tweezers in a first aid kit, or modeling kit, or amongst your personal grooming gear. However, I strongly advise you to keep those separate from your DIY activities. You don't want paint on a first aid tool. Similarly, your better half may be more than annoyed if her personal grooming toolkit has been coated in glue, sawdust. I haven't done it myself.. but I know guys who have. The one thing most guys don't know, is just how much these items cost you (monetarily and in inconvenience).... so spend the 10 bucks or whatever to get your own set.

Ok, so you have your work piece on a table, but it's slipping everywhere as you sand, paint, scrape, or even glue. Now if you had a bench, you'd probably be using any number of wood working or metal working clamps and holding devices. However, we're not there yet with this kit, so how about...

A rubber non-slip drawer liner...

What?! I hear you think.

Well if you're wood or metal working, you might not want your piece to slide on whatever surface you have. So a cheap, cost effective way to fix that problem, is to place the rubber liner under your workpiece (or cutting mat, outlined above).


You can probably buy a roll of the stuff for $2-10 Australian. Now listen (well, read) because this is important. You want a non-adhesive roll. You want it to be non-slip.. but that doesn't mean you want to stick it to anything.

While screws, and even nails could be considered "temporary" fasteners, as they can be removed. They're usually left in place for extremely long periods of time.

However, clamps offer a temporary fastening solution in the truest sense of the word. Usually, they're used for hours, perhaps a few days at most, while other fastening methods (usually glue) takes hold, then the clamps are removed.

Holding pieces together while the glue is drying is hugely useful. The clamps bring forces to squeeze work together, spreading the glue over greater areas (often, but not always, increasing strength) and since you'rer not there holding it together, clamps free up hands to do other things.

Clamps can also push things together when the fit is tight, or simply hold objects firmly to a table. So a couple of C or G clamps are recommended in this kit because they're cheap, they're smaller than most other types, and they're simple to use.

Just for your information...

Clamps come in all shapes (often associated with a letter, like C, F, and G clamp due to their shapes similarity to those letters), but other popular types include:

• "quick grips" (F clamps that can be used one-handed)
• sash and/or pipe clamps (usually very large projects like tables and cabinetry)
• picture frame clamps (also known as right angle or mitre clamps)
• locking clamps (often used in metal working/welding)
• web clamps (for odd shapes, these use a webbing/strap to squeeze things together).

Each clamp type may come in several sizes, each type usually covers a differing range of distance. Smaller clamps might only have jaws that open 2.5cm (1"), while larger models might reach around objects that are metres (yards) apart.

Screw drivers, as mentioned above, may work well for inserting screws into soft materials, where speed doesn't matter, or where a delicate touch is needed. However, drilling holes is another matter entirely, and driving many screws... or just driving a few screws into difficult materials.... well that's when you need a power tool.

A drill is the only power tool that I'd recommend for everyone. So without much further ado....

Drill types and uses:

Cordless drills:

Firstly, I'm starting with cordless drills because they're popular these days.

Do you crawl into roof cavities, or under the house a lot? Are most of your tasks "light to medium duty?", Do you need to operate away from power sources? Then you, dear reader, probably, want a cordless drill.

Battery voltage is indicative of how much speed or rotational power (torque) the drill is capable of. Not how long the battery will last. That said, it's entirely possible for a 12V battery to outlast a 54V battery... depending on it's use. To find how long a battery will last, you need to look at the "Amp hour"(AH) ratings on the batteries themselves. As these numbers are generally indicative of how long a battery can be run between charges.

In short, Voltage = speed or power (and maximum size of drill bits). Amps (or Amp hours) how long they last.

Generally speaking, a 12V system is designed to be smaller and lighter weight than larger models. While it's entirely possible to have a huge 12V battery (For example, a car battery) the 12V cordless batteries will have a lower AH rating. Usually between 1 to 1.7AH. This may yield similar run times to larger systems due to increased efficiency through lighter components, and lowered load requirements. Cordless systems with 18V and above usually have batteries between 2 and 5AH.

As the AH rating increases, the physical size and weight of the battery increases. It's for this reason, some cordless tools can ultimately become as bulky (or worse) than corded tools. Especially if multiple batteries and chargers get involved.

More powerful (higher voltage) cordless tools tend to also have additional capabilities, such as "hammer drilling" (used when drilling into walls, concrete, masonry) but while these features are useful for light duty tasks, it's still not going to match a corded drill. That said, many people who only do "light duty jobs" are more than satisfied by the cordless offerings.

Warning: Do not buy a "Skin only" kit. This does not include the required batteries or charger. Which are significantly more expensive to buy "after the fact".

Corded Drills:

Corded drills offer several advantages:

• They're still faster, and more powerful than almost any cordless drill. Time wasted using slower cordless tools can be more expensive over time than the tools themselves.
• Most drill bits are built to be used at corded drill speeds, as such, running them slower in cordless drills can mean that the bits can heat up more (chips and dust aren't extracted at the normal speed, this is important because they take the heat out of the drilling operation with them) and as such, the bits you use may overheat, and have a shorter life span. Slower does not always mean cooler. Remember that.
• You can pick a corded drill up "for cheap" since most people are switching to cordless systems. Ask an friend or family member if they have one they don't use much.
• Expect a corded drill to last for years, perhaps decades. There's no battery "shelf lives" to worry about. Often, the consumable parts (like motor brushes) are easily replaceable. Many new corded drills are brushless so they have even longer life expectancy.
• You never have to wait for the battery to charge, or buy new batteries. Just plug it in and go. Although, unspooling and winding the cable up at the end can slow you down a bit.
• For bigger projects with many holes to drill, the ergonomics of having larger handles, or even a second handle, can really reduce muscle strain... this is a seldom-considered issue, and it's worth thinking about. Cordless drills are designed for one handed operation, and to be light weight for portability... however, they're not designed with long term ergonomics in mind.
• Corded drills can use bigger drill bits, and are best at drilling deeper, and much harder materials at faster speeds, and this can save you a great deal of time.
• Certain paint stripping or metal polishing operations where accessories are attached to the drill, use the motor continuously for a long time. This suits corded drills more, as operations like this will eat through batteries at a much faster rate than the intermittent drilling and driving operations a cordless drill is typically used for.

I'm not saying that you should choose one or the other, but I'm hoping you'll be able to find a drill with the specifications that suit your needs. Of course, as a starter kit, there's nothing to stop you from buying another drill down the road if you need it. Just stick to a lower-cost one while you're finding your feet. If you don't continue this hobby, you're still not hugely invested.

So what would I buy if I were just starting out, knowing what I know now?

Some people would buy the cheapest system they can find, Ozito and Xu1 brands are examples of this. You can find both corded and cordless tools in these brands for under $50 Australian. Now, you can do this, but expect to swap tools at least once during the warranty, then just throw them out. Whether or not you want to waste time going back to the local hardware store to replace them... that's up to you. I would prefer to direct you to a "cheap but decent" option so you don't end up "messing something up" when the tool breaks.


Ryobi and AEG brands are considered "decent entry-level to middle of the road", suitable to DIYers. Some of the "pro" brands have offerings in this category as well, weirdly made in different colours to their usual, higher ended offerings. Such as the green tools by "Bosch" (their pro tools are blue), The black/grey/orange range of Makita (many of their better tools are blue). Remember what colours mean for each brand.. (Xu1 is blue and cheap) so there's a lot of overlap and that can be confusing.

Ideally if you're going for a cordless drill, I humbly recommend you buy a kit with a charger and two batteries. (If one battery dies, you still have the other, and while both batteries are still functioning, you can charge one while you use the other, vastly reducing any charge-related downtime). New drill models are coming out all the time, so do a little research, read reviews and find out what promotions are on. (There's always one brand having a sale).

Note: You will save money if you buy all your cordless tools in one big kit.. but this only works for committed DIYers. However, if you're looking for multiple tools all at once, buy ONE brand so you can share the batteries between them. Batteries are brand specific, so you can't use one brand of battery to power another brand... sometimes you can't even use old batteries in the same brand to power newer generations of tools. This is because battery technology improves over time, and the newer models of tools may be designed to take advantage of those improvements.

If you can stretch the budget to an 18V system with a 13mm chuck... that covers a lot of basics. However, if money is tight, or you only work on smaller projects, perhaps a 12V system is best. However that will limit you to bits with a maximum diameter of 8-10mm.

Sometimes it pays to go to a dedicated tool store, such as Sydney Tools/Total Tools/Gasweld (here in the Australia) over the local Bunnings (or other big hardware store) as they tend to have a wider range, have better advice since they get feedback from the trades people who beat their tools up for a living, and often have promotions that can get you better tools for less money. I've saved hundreds if not thousands by politely asking for advice, with a brief explanation of my situation, and intended work needs.

As a beginner, you don't need to "buy the best". A drill is still, a drill. However, if a price range for adequate quality is helpful...  Honestly, I'd spend somewhere between $100-250 Australian for a single, 18V drill/hammer drill/driver combo (all the features in one device), two batteries and a charger. If they throw in an "impact driver", (a second, very useful tool for those who deal with a lot of screws) I'd happily spend up to another $100 total... as they usually cost more than twice that if bought separately.

Here's a very informative video explaining the difference between a drill and an impact driver.


I'd probably consider paying the same for the corded drill too, (the $100-250) for a beginner. You don't need huge, or obscenely powerful. However, if you can get a working second hand model from a friend or family.. you can then spend the money on buying a decent drill bit set.

Twist bit, spade bit, Forstner bit, hole saws, brad points, auger bits, split points, and masonry bits are just the beginning. There's also tip geometry, ranging from 90 to 135^o angles. Then there's drill bit materials. Do you want bi-metal, cobalt, titanium, carbide coated, or high speed steel bits?

Then you have specific bits for impact drivers, and SDS drills... which add their own complexities to the range of options.

For general purpose drilling. A twist bit index (a set with a range of sizes) is a great start. It will happily drill into wood, plastic, softer metals, and maybe softer steels (with coolant/cutting fluid).

If you plan to drill into brick or concrete... then you need a masonry bit set too. Masonry bits are completely different than twist bits, and benefit greatly from a hammer function on a drill.

Need a bigger drilled hole?

If you're drilling larger holes, spade bits (sometimes called "flat bits" in the U.S.) and forstner bits will generally range between 10mm and 50mm. If you're going bigger again, you need a hole saw kit if you want to go even bigger. I've seen hole saw kits that start at 20mm and go up to 150, and even 200mm diameters. However, there are a lot of sizes, and they can be upwards of $50, or even $100 for each. 

Please note that you need the compatible attachment shaft, and this isn't always included with individual hole saws. So it's best to start with a kit, and keep to the same brand for compatibility sake. Naturally, price goes up when hole saws get big, and the materials they're made of (like diamond encrusted teeth) go up in quality. Obviously, the bigger sized holesaws will also need more powerful drills to operate, and this is even more true when drilling into harder materials like steel.

Brad points are great for wood, as the pointy tip stops the bit from "wandering off" when drilling softer materials. However, they're terrible for hard materials. Auger bits are great for wood working, but are nowhere near as "general purpose" as twist bits.

Masonry bits have a special carbide/diamond chisel-like tip, then the usual twisted channels (flutes) for ejecting the material from the hole. For mounting bolts to masonry, these are essential. Using twist bits on masonry will work, but you'll destroy your twist bits in the process.

For more information on drill bits, I highly recommend:

https://www.theengineerspost.com/types-of-drill-bits/

That's a lot of information. If you've joined us part way from the "Drilling and Driving bit", you might want to skim the rest of the page.

If you picked the right stuff (for you) from this basic tool kit list, you should be able to:

• measure, mark, and line up any dimensions and cuts.
• cut and shape a variety of materials ranging from paper, plastic sheeting, fabric and string with scissors,
• use pliers and wire cutters to (funnily enough) cut and shape wire,
• use a box cutter shape to plastic and other soft materials,
• cut wood, plastic, soft metals, and even steel bolts with the hacksaw.
• You can drill holes, and even drive screws into those holes with the drill, or when a delicate touch is needed, drive screws (in or out) by hand.
• insert/remove nails with the claw hammer, manoeuvre (tap) items into place,
• get to grips with objects (bolts, pipes, wire, and many more) by using pliers and spanners.
• use glues or physical attachments (nuts/bolts, screws, and nails), to join pieces together....
• do a quick tape up job to seal something in/out, paint more cleanly, or just temporarily stick something to something else.
• know where all these tools are, and have stored them in some sort of easy to discern order, and can take them wherever you need them to be.

and....

• Finally and most importantly, from start to finish, you (and all who work with you) should be able to engage in DIY tasks while reducing the risks of skin exposure, eye/hearing damage, breathing difficulties, and reducing the usual risks posed by heat, chemicals, electricity, and sharp/pointy objects.

Sure, there's bigger tools to be had, and stuff that will help you to accomplish specific tasks, or increase productivity, but there's often a substantial increase in price, space and expertise required to handle that.

There are also other fields of DIY like:

• Electronics: where specific tools and testing equipment would be needed. Sure a soldering iron, a multimeter, and a pair of "helping hands" would be good for fixing a basic cable... but there's a rabbit hole of power supplies, signal generators, oscilloscopes, LCR testers, variacs, isolating transformers and test componentry that goes way beyond the scope of a complete beginner.
• Metal Working: As the material strength/hardness goes up, so does the power, cost, weight, and size of the tools needed to machine it. A pair of aviation (tin) snips for cutting metal sheeting and a metal scribe for marking on metal might well be a worthwhile investment at this level. However, power tools become necessary in many fundamental areas of metal working. An angle grinder is the cheapest way to get cutting, cleaning, and polishing metal. It's also likely that you'll need a welder, (plus all the accessories and additional safety gear) and these are just the beginner level stuff. You need to be more skilled and confident with this gear as the power, the heat, the noise, along with the increased risk of flying debris, of gas leaks, explosion, fire, electrocution, and poisonous fumes are very real. I'm not saying that a DIYer can't use this gear (many do) but at the beginning, getting someone to show you the ropes, make you aware of the dangers and how to avoid them, is key.
• Large scale painting: Painting a room, or indeed a whole house needs it's own range of gear. Goggles, dust mask, gloves and ear protection is really handy. However, gap/spack filler for cracks/holes/dents along with the putty knife/trowel/scraper you use to work it, paint brushes/rollers, sanding tools, drop sheets, extension poles, ladders, and ways to clean up (turpentine or methylated spirits, shop vac for dust extraction, ways to mix or store paint, are generally enough for most jobs.
• Gardening: A pair of loppers (big secateurs), secateurs, trowel, shovel, gloves, hat, sunscreen, insect repellent, bucket or two, watering can, hose, sprinkler (or irrigation system), compost bin, spray bottles,ladder, hedge trimmer (if you have any hedges) can get you tending to plants pretty well. Of course, lawn mowers, mulchers, trailer/ute for moving soil is also a big help at times too.

Anyway, I hope you found this helpful. I'm sure I'll extend out these recommended kits to intermediate options in the future.

Take care, be safe and happy DIY-ing!
Ham.