Laundry Design and Renovation

Imagine you have a laundry. The room is 1.8m long, 1.4m wide, and 2.2m high. You have a standard 60cm x 45cm laundry tub that's 75cm high in the corner, a washing machine, a few washing machine taps sticking a full 28cm out from the wall (insane I know), strategically placed so you can't stack machines on top of one another... anywhere in the room (unless they're stacked in the middle of said room) Also, there's not enough room to sit a washer and dryer "side by side", and all the fittings and plumbing are placed in ways that you can't rearrange anything without ripping the walls out, moving taps/drains/electrical outlets, and even the exhaust fan gets in the way.

If this room could have been arranged in a less versatile and adaptable way, while remaining as "bare bones" as possible, I genuinely believe that I could not improve on it.

The laundry was just considered "too hard" to change by Ren. In late 2018, we managed to find and add an tall/narrow Ikea cupboard, and that helped, but aside from that, even the light fittings were as bare as the builders had left it when the place was built in 2003.

In short, it was cramped, cluttered, and the top of the washing machine was the only "pseudo bench space" we had. The absolute minimum had been done to this, and any improvements were haphazard in nature. Otherwise the room was entirely and willfully ignored.

For years, we didn't own a dryer, so the remaining space became a bit of a dumping ground for vacuum cleaners, clothes "airers", mops, brooms and buckets.

We didn't miss a dryer much at all. We just washed and hung our washing out on the line in the back yard. However, a particularly wet winter, followed by a wet spring, followed by a wet summer.... Ren had truly reached the end of her rope.

So we got the drier.... and despite getting a fabulous discount and free delivery, even the nice burly delivery guys who showed no evidence of possessing a neck said:

"You don't want to be stacking your machines in the middle of the room do you?!"


So hence this project was born from necessity, and after nearly two decades of procrastination/avoidance.

It might seem weird that I've shown rendered images of the design we've gone for. Already, we know how a big the benchtop needs to be, where the washer and dryer are going, that we need a smaller sink (and to remove the existing one). It also shows the overall structure of the metal frame, made of 50mm x 50mm, 3mm walled "square hollow stock" (I prefer painted steel over galvanized, since the galvanized coating makes some really nasty fumes when welding, and that I'll be painting the whole thing anyway).

However, a few things need to be considered now:

1. The room needs to be cleared out.
2. Poorly placed taps need to moved, and electrical outlets added. This requires:
1. The Gyprock/drywall needs to be cut out.
2. Plumbing has to be moved and reattached. Electrical outlet needs to be connected
3. Gyprock needs to be replaced with suitable holes for utilities, then joined, and sanded to existing wall surfaces.
4. Finished wall needs to be painted. Tiles installed where needed, and waterproofing (grout/silicone) applied.
5. Taps and outlets need to be mounted to walls and tested (and signed off by professionals).
3. Metal frame built and installed, this involves:
1. Design needs to be completed, double checked and confirmed.
2. Metal bought and cut to lengths.
3. Pieces welded together, painted and adjustable feet mounted
4. Completed frame moved into place without damaging everything.
5. Washer/dryer needs to be installed (pipes and power).
4. Benchtop ordered for frame, after confirming all dimensions.
5. Benchtop installed (very carefully).
6. Sink installed into benchtop, plumber to attach drain and replace temp taps.
7. Upper cabinet measured/quoted from pro due to inability to get "professionally finished substrates".
8. Splash back needs to be purchased, cut to size, holes drilled and mounted to wall.

Sounds like a lot, doesn't it, because it is.. and any renovation is a journey... a long winding journey where the end seems... theoretical at best.

Time for some photos of our journey!

We started this project back in February, and it's now April. Getting supplies these days has been a huge hinderance, but this is nothing compared to the bathroom renovation... Which I try not to mention around Ren... since it's a bit of a "sore point".

Ok, so two months or so into our work, we have four finished walls, a frame, the machines are installed (albeit plumbed crudely) I've installed new exhaust fan and an improved light fitting... that leaves:

• Stone benchtop is still needed.
• Sink to be installed and plumbed.
• Cabinet built and installed.
• Splashback bought, cut, drilled and installed.
• Under-cabinet lighting installed.

You'd think that's simple....

It has taken weeks to get the stone top people to respond. Despite providing my bechtop technical drawing, the company is sending a guy to confirm my measurements. I don't think that's a problem. In fact, it's a relief. If there's a problem with the final cut, it isn't my fault.


Meanwhile on the cabinetry front...

I can't get access to the commercially finished laminated doors and such, so I approached a few companies to provide a quote.

Of the five, only one turned up. When the one who did turn up was asked, "How soon can you get this done?" he replied:

"October, maybe". (SO at best, that's six months away)

A few days later the quote came in, and the price was so eye-wateringly expensive (think a whole new kitchen) that we basically decided to build it ourselves. You remember my CAD model above, right? Well guess what, here is some more...

Ok, so I had a 3D model. Each piece of wood was left as "a component" (which is Fusion 360 jargon for "a discrete piece". Components are useful because you have some greater flexibility about whether something is joined to other pieces or not). However, I haven't found a "cut list generator" function in Fusion yet.. perhaps it exists, I don't know.

So I noted down all the dimensions for each piece, noted the quantity of each type, then all I had to do was figure out how many sheets of plywood I needed to buy, and how to arrange the pieces to minimise waste/maximise efficiency.

Two things have considerably delayed progress:

1. Paint doesn't dry well in Canberra winter.
2. Backsplash order arrived in a damaged state.

Painting has be a royal pain in the neck. The paint we used for the cabinet, even after considerable stirring/mixing was very thin. This required upwards of a dozen coats to get an even appearance.

Things get even worse with the spray paint. Aiming for a high-gloss and even white coat requires several coats at the best of time. Typical drying times is usually a few hours or so, but I was putting two days between coats, with light sanding between each layer...

Even so, after several weeks, the paint was still soft and sticky. Problems ranged from the doors sticking together with a strength sufficient to rip the top layer of plywood apart from the rest of the wood.... to my hand print being firmly embedded into the still-soft paint as I installed the doors.

So I've installed the doors, and have just left the paint/surface repairs until it warms up in spring.. perhaps even summer.

So what about the back splash?

So we found ourselves in a bit of a frustrating situation. We had to order 3.5m of acrylic backsplash because with the kerf taken into consideration, the 3m length was literally, 8mm too short.

After ordering a very light grey/brown back splash, we waited the two weeks for delivery and on delivery... we found it was broken by an over-tightened ratchet strap.

We took our case to the supplier, and they said we'd have to return the old back splash when they delivered the new one. So all back splash installation came to a grinding halt. Three weeks after that, the replacement was delivered... but the old one was not taken away, even when I told them that they were supposed to. They checked, and suddenly we had two... well... maybe 1.5 backsplashes.

As it turns out, this proved most fortunate. We used the broken one to practice our cuts. and we learned a lot! The plastic didn't have the protective film on both sides, and as a result, the paint was scratched off as we passed the plastic over the table saw.

Solving our problems

In order to protect the back splash, I ended up covering the whole table saw's top with painter's tape to remove any rough edges. The plastic filings from the saw had to be religiously dusted off as well.

Getting the smoothest cut proved a little tricky. We had already prepared an 80 teeth, 255mm (10") blade, brand new and sharp specifically for this task. But that still doesn't guarantee a smooth cut. To further reduce chipping as we cut the acrylic, we taped both sides of the back splash where the cut was to be made. This stopped the vast bulk of the chips, but this is not exactly a perfectly polished edge. Nonetheless, we managed to get the largest (back) piece cut out of the broken piece.

But the fun doesn't stop there.....

Well after 6 months or so, the only things that need doing are:

1. Get the plumber to install the new taps, sink and plumbing. That's scheduled for next week.
2. Sand and repaint the doors when it warms up.
3. Fix up some minor flaws with the adjustable shelving.
4. Consider adding low profile shelving/cabinetry that sits flush with the open laundry door. However that's for the supreme matriarch to decide.

For me, this was one huge learning experience. Some of the highlights include:

• Advanced my use of CAD software, including:
• Apply textures and colours to my components,
• Render 3D images from my models,
• Manage components into viable part lists,
• Manipulate models into various arrangements for optimal workflow and storage space,
• Adapt models and plans to real-world considerations (installation angles, available space considering tight tolerances, etc)
• How to remove a gyprock wall,
• How to repair/replace, and paint a gyprock wall,
• Rudimentary-yet-reasonably precise welding,
• Refine my use of angle grinders,
• Improve my spray painting techniques,
• Cut angles into cornicing,
• How to cut, install, and work with unusual materials (like acrylic back splashes)
• How to (and hownot to) silicone wet areas,
• How to install new lighting, exhaust fans, and replace a faulty electrical outlet.

... Just to name a few.

Times are tough, and it's extremely hard to get a professional tradesperson (a.k.a: "tradie") in these days. If they do turn up, they can pick jobs they want to do, and charge a premium for it. We found it was easier to get a tradie to come from Sydney, than to get a local guy in. Think about that, 7 hours round trip, plus accommodation, and that's still cheaper and faster than a local guy.

So considering that we were originally slated to have a local pro bathroom team take care of Ren's ensuite back in April/May.. and yet in August, they still have no clue when (or perhaps, if) they're going to turn up this year to start. We've had a decidedly "slow but more progressive experience" doing the laundry renovation (for the most part) ourselves. 

The delays with the pro team is particularly painful, considering that we were spending the months preceding the April start date, buying tiles, shower gear, a new lavatory... that's a lot of stuff to be sitting around an already cluttered household for months on end. I'm truly glad for our second bathroom.

So in conclusion....

If you have a basic workshop (or have access to one), you'll find that most of the tools to undertake a renovation like this are either common, or dirt cheap.

• a table saw,
• a drill,
• an oscillating tool,
• a sander, and
• basic painting tools,
• a few jigs for:
• drilling adjustable shelf holes,
• pocket holes, and
• installing concealed hinges.
• a caulking gun, and a silicone smoothing tool for sealing, and
• the perennial uses for glue, screws, and a number of clamps...

Then you have pretty much all the tools we used in this renovation. Sure, you don't need a welder, or fancy squares, if you build your cabinets from wood, some of the jigs I used cost less than $20.

TOTAL COST?

We probably spent about $7000 on materials ($3000 of which went on the fancy stone benchtop, $1500 on wood/paint/tiles, $650 on the backsplash, $600 on steel, $400 on gyprocking supplies (the gyprock, tape, adhesive, multi-purpose filler/coating, and "gyprocking tools"). The hinges for the cabinet were about $120, I think we bought the sink online for $75, the new taps for $60, the 8 adjustable feet for the steel frame were $50, and the silicone in three different colours, about $15 each, so about $45. I'm sure I'm missing a few things here and there, but I've already covered $6500 or so. Throw in the $180 odd bucks for the Ikea lighting, we're getting pretty close.

Consumables like bulk packs of grinding wheels, flap & cut off disks ($200), MIG welding wire ($20), bolts ($50), screws ($80), drill bits ($150 for holesaw kit, and various jigs), etc... probably about $700.

Professional services, original tap moved by the first plumber, I think was $420. Final sink plumbing and tap installation, another $430. So that's $850 total there.

So ignoring any value for my time, postage for online orders, fuel chasing "bits and pieces" from a variety of shops, we're talking a total of about $8500.

Where could we have saved money?

We could have built the lower cabinetry out of wood, but believe it or not, that would have probably cost about the same amount by the time you include paint, glue, and other consumables. I could have used four, instead of eight adjustable feet, that maybe could have saved about $25. We could have used a cheaper ply to construct the cabinet, that would maybe save $200, but much of it was warped and full of voids, which complicate things.

I added features like soft-close hinges, new lighting that... we could have used cheaper LED strips to do, I added some electrical safety features. I installed a new exhaust fan, ceiling light fitting, I opted for the stainless steel fixings... everything instead of the much cheaper "zinc coated" alternatives.

The real way to save money on this project, comes in four parts:

1. Choose a cheaper stone top, or even wood benchtop. We probably could have done it for $1400 if we bought the cheapest stone, or perhaps as little as $500 if we did it from laminated/wooden tops. That's a saving of anywhere between $1600 and $2500.

2. DIY my plumbing. If I were willing to wait weeks to get the right fittings for the plastic piping, I could have taken most of the "pro" services off the cost (about $500), if I added another $300 to my materials list. However, $600 for the piece of mind to know your pipes aren't going burst, and the better half won't end up hating you because of any failed water works "down the track" is totally worth it in my opinion.

3. Another way to save, would be to use a proper spray painting rig for the cabinet and frame. I don't have a spray painting gun (or compressor) so I was limited to buying tiny cans of rather expensive spray paint. I think I used 35 cans, at $15 each. That's $525, add the nearly $200 in "normal paint cans" rollers, and brushes, and the gap starts to widen more. If I had the means to use bulk paints, I probably could have cut that in half. However, when the good spray tools cost $700 to buy and $200 per day to hire (and hours if not days between coats) I'd need a few more projects to make that worthwhile.  I certainly would not hire a spray gun during the winter months here in Canberra. It would be cheaper to buy on the first project.

4. We didn't really need the 6mm thick backsplash, a 4mm would have worked. But, it just had a nicer look to it. However, the longer length was only really available in the 6mm thickness at the time of purchase. That could have shaved $100-150 off.

So if I was a better plumber, if we opted for cheaper materials, and had a friend we could have borrowed a spray painting rig from, we could have shaved $3200 off that $8500, leaving a total of $5300. Maybe you can?

Renovating wet areas (usually kitchen and bathrooms) are often the most expensive rooms to "fix up". They require waterproofing, often have more electrical and plumbing considerations. Laundries are notoriously cramped, poorly laid out, and need special care in designing.

At the end of this very, very long project. The laundry is no longer a horror show, that we have to desperately hide from visitors. In fact, it's now a point of pride, it's well thought out, the storage is wildly improved, and it actually looks good!

Now is this the best laundry ever? Of course not. We don't have miles of room to have light and airy spaces for his and her hampers. We don't even have a window in our laundry, as it's part of the innermost parts of the home. We certainly don't have to room to place "knick knacks" and other decorative fluff that you might see on Pinterest or "Better" Homes and Gardens. It's pure utilitarianism meets minimalism. (There dear reader, is my pseudo-artistic-fluff description for my sense of style).

That said, we've made the absolute most out of the business side of the laundry, what we do with the small amount of remaining space is a tale for another project. :-)

I'm no expert, I just spent a lot of time learning new skills (largely from YouTube and DIY books) and be willing to both make mistakes and fix them. I hope this inspires you, dear resolute reader, to try something new in your own DIY journey.

Take care, and all the best in your endeavours,
Ham.