Ham's recommended toolbox ideas 2: Getting more comfortable

In the basic kit, you're using a cutting mat to protect a table you likely already own. However, having a dedicated (sacrificial?) workbench to do most of your work on will be a massive boon to your DIY game.

There's no right or wrong way to do this. Just ways that are right or wrong for your situation. Some options include:

• If you find a free table in the local classifieds and use that in a quiet corner of the garage, great! Tip: you can later disassemble, or modify it as your needs change too because wood is expensive. :-)
  
• Alternatively, you could buy a couple of saw horses and slap a plank across the top for a mobile option (top left). Many job site/mobile builders do this. There's also the Bora "Centipede" system (bottom left) which is also really handy, packs up tightly, and isn't obscenely expensive.
• You could also buy/build a wall mounted bench kit that folds flat against the wall when not in use for a space saving solution. (top right)
• Use standard modular garage shelving to make a bench is a quick and readily available option (bottom middle)... as is...
• Buying a pre-made garage workbench/trolley with a ton of drawers... if that suits your needs.
• Lastly (but certainly not least) you could build a proper "bench kit", or your own personalized DIY workbench to your exact specifications which in all honesty, is a right of passage for any DIYer. That said, it's easy to spend a lot on such things... so design your project carefully. (A kit can be seen in the bottom right).

 Now isn't this about tools? Well yes... but this is also about being more comfortable in doing DIY on a multitude of levels. There's one thing that almost a certainty to happen, and that's mess. Whether it's chunks of metal, wood, glass, or plastic that have been trimmed off, or the fine powders of paint, wood and plasterboard created during sanding.. you need a way to handle all this.

Now, I'm going to assume you have a bin for your DIY refuse already. However, sweeping up larger debris from the floor is much easier on your back with a full length broom and a dust pan. But if space is tight... skip this and get....

... a shorter hand held brush and dustpan. It helps to sweep things off the benches and timber bits without getting splinters. I probably use this the most, and have several around the shop. The simple truth, is that's there's a lot of mess-related bits that are too oddly shaped, heavy, or large to be handled by the air filters and vacuums attached to sanders and saws.... so it all ends up on the floor. So this leads me to...

Perhaps most importantly, I suggest a shop vacuum not only handles the dust off the floor like a regular household vacuum, you can attach them directly to a variety of tools to handle smaller shavings and dust at the source. (Usually with additional connectors and adaptors)

Now, while you may already have a dustpan and broom, and likely a household vacuum....

I don't recommend using those for DIY activities. They get all kinds of muck on them like glue, paint, varnish, plaster, and all manner of unsafe debris... just get a couple of dedicated dustpans and brooms/brushes for the DIY stuff (they're not expensive).

Don't use expensive, domestic vacuums...

If you try to use your domestic vacuum for workshop purposes... it'll encourage cross contamination in your living spaces, and can damage even expensive Dyson models. (Not good if your better half demands you go out and buy a replacement). Sanding dust can be as fine, if not finer than household dust, and so you need better dust bags, and much better (heavier duty) filters. So don't think all domestic vacuums claiming to be "HEPA" rated... are equivalent to industrial models.

While it's nice to have a Festool "Dust extractor"... it's too expensive to list here for people at this stage. So, I highly recommend getting a cheap-to-mid-range $100-400 shop vac if you plan on doing a lot of sanding, want to invest in some stationary tools like a table or mitre saw, and getting the adaptors to connect them. However ensure that the vacuum includes:

• All floor cleaning attachments, because models listed as "dust extractors" don't always have them.
• Have fabric (not paper) bags available... fabric lasts longer, and often cleans better.
• Spare parts like filters are easily replaceable and available.
• Maybe even include an attachment for a tool or two (unlikely, at the dirt-cheap end but some mid-range models do have this in the default kit)
• Has the widest intake pipe you can find. Don't buy anything with a 32mm pipe. A 35mm, or better yet 50mm or more... is much less likely to clog and burn the motor out.
• Ideally, a HEPA rated filter. If not, the dust mask from the previous list should be worn.. but if you're sanding, you should be wearing it anyway.

No matter what quality the vacuum is, at the very least, it'll filter out most of the dust that would otherwise be going onto the floor, work bench, and/or lingering in the air. This makes the workshop a much nicer place to be and increases both safety and comfort. However, it's just a vacuum, so don't expect perfect, hermetically sealed, completely dust-free air.. that's not realistic.

Vacuums help, but using a vacuum often helps more.

That said... I can't stress how much of a difference, regular cleaning makes in a workshop. Spend just 5-10 mins at the end of the day, putting tools away, and a quick run around with a broom and vacuum, and you'll save at least 30 minutes the next day not looking for that misplaced tool. That's a lesson I learned the hard way... many times.

• A dust port (usually to attach a bag, but it's much better to connect it to your shop vac), if you can get one with a circular dust port, it'll be much easier to connect to a vacuum than oddly-shaped ports.
• Variable speed control (There are times when this is handy, particularly with coarse, lower grit sand paper pads),
• The option to use different types of backing pads (hard backing pads are great for flat surfaces and sharp edges. Soft pads are for curved, convex and to a lesser extent, concave surfaces). Some sanders even come with differently sized pads of 4/5" (100/125mm) pads for various situations. Better brands may include these in the box with your sander, but others may sell them separately as additional accessories.
• Excellent dust management (many cheaper end models only have 6-10 holes in the sanding pad with corresponding holes in the sandpaper disks too for dust extraction. It may seem counterintuitive, but more holes in the pad/paper actually help the sand paper to last longer, avoid clogging, and improve surface finish quality. Expensive sanders like Festool, use a whole host of holes in their sanding pads (and you have to buy more costly Festool branded sandpaper disks to match those holes.. but they last longer so it evens out). The "best" sanders use sandpaper that's more like kitchen strainer mesh with grit attached, and are pneumatically powered and have insane dust port suction to capture as much dust as possible. If you're interested, have a look at the "Mirka" brand for this, but expect eye-watering price tags.
• Corded rather than cordless: I'm sure some will disagree with me, and I do like cordless tools when they're suitable. That said, unlike most tools, a sander needs to run for long periods of time. Not the short bursts that a drill, or circular saw might be used in. As such, batteries get drained pretty quickly on sanders. If you're doing the smart thing of connecting the shop vac to handle the dust, (because the dust bags/filters that they usually come with.... aren't exactly great) you're already tethered to a device via the hose. Adding a cable ensures greater power reliability and offers little-to-no added inconvenience.

Do I really need an expensive sander?

As a DIYer? No. The "not-so-well-kept secret" in sanding is that it's the sand paper that does all the work... the motors just move it around. A cheap tool used well, might take a little longer, but can render the same result as an expensive one. Have a look into better sandpaper... many people recommend 3M's "Cubitron" range, which works just as well for a cheap sander, as an expensive one. Heck, buy the big box of sandpaper disks for the bulk savings, you'll probably use them. That said, if you're spending a lot of time on sanding.. then the better and more expensive models of sander will pay themselves off in speed, and comfort along the way.

Have a look at my other page, describing various sanders for usage tips, found here:

Sander Types & Uses


Why recommend the ROS instead of the other sander types?

Honestly, it's the ROS's balance between general versatility, price, availablility of tools/supplies, and ease of use that I think will suit most people. Smaller sanders, and even oscillating tools with sanding attachments are too slow to be "the one" sander you should have. Larger models are too heavy, expensive, and potentially damaging for people in the earlier stages of their DIY journey.

I can't imagine that you'll be unhappy about having an ROS, especially once you're freed from the old block and sandpaper... and connect it to a shop vacuum to handle the mess. :~)

• It's a dirt-cheap way to store and apply glue to your projects in a convenient manner.
• Refilling from larger glue bottles becomes a simple matter of pouring into the wider mouth. No funnel required. (Less mess and fewer hands required during pouring).
• A 1L bottle is often 2, 3 or even 10 times larger than most commercial squeeze bottles, so you refill less often, making you a faster worker. (Important when glue is drying, and just ran out in the sauce bottle).
• You can see through the translucent/clear sides to see how much remains in the bottle at a glance (many commercial bottles don't have this simple benefit)
• Buying glue in bulk bottles/vats, and then dispensing it into sauce bottles saves an absolute fortune over time.

Back to the silicone brush....

• You can join two clamps together: (with joiner accessory, naturally sold separately, but you can make these yourself pretty easily) to make one bigger clamp.. that's really handy for the smaller storage requirements since you don't have long clamp bars to contend with, but the combined size helps when taking on the occasional "larger" project... but don't want to store 600-1300mm long clamps.
• You can reverse them so they spread two things apart: Great for gentle (no whacking) disassembly of tight joints, or ensuring you hold something far enough apart for precise glue-up positioning, and opposing any other clamps in may squeeze things too closely together before the glue sets.
• There are right-angled pads: (Another separately sold accessory) You can ensure corner joints are held together at 90 degrees, that's really handy for glue-ups. Unfortunately, while they do help adhesion of right-angled joints, they don't guarantee precise 90 degree angles. (See my next recommendation for that)
• One handed operation: The trigger system is a huge help when you're working alone. You simply can't do that with most other clamps... holding it in place as you tighten clamps up usually requires two hands, at least... initially.

• Dozuki (great for fine joinery)
• Kataba Yokobiki (generally precise cross cuts)
• Mawashibiki (cuts curves, much like a keyhole saw)
• Azebiki (mini Ryoba)
• Kugihiki (Flush cut saw)

In my beginner kit, you bought a couple of adjustable wrenches (or "shifting spanners" here in Australia). They work well in situations where the bolt head and nut are proud of their surroundings, but if you've got a bolt head, nut (or both) sunk deep into a countersunk hole, or deep in the fins of a lawn mower engine, then those shifter's won't be much help.

A socket is simply a hollow metal cylinder, with a hexagonal hole on one side for your bolt/nut, and another hole to insert a ratcheting handle, or even a custom screwdriver handle. You can approach the nut/bolt from directly above, and there's usually one, or even several attachments you can use to work more quickly and effectively.

Sockets can come in a variety of sizes (for different sized nuts/bolts), and of course, in both metric and imperial measurements. Obviously, it makes sense to buy the system your country uses,  but I've often come across imperial bolts in old machinery, even here in an obsessively metric country like Oz.

Socket sets can be as basic or comprehensive as you like. Some sets are just a handful of sockets with a handle, others are comprehensive mechanic kits that fill several drawers with every socket size/type you can imagine in a dedicated mechanical tool trolley. It's important to pick a socket set that meets your needs.

Generally, I'd say a range of sockets from 3mm-25mm (1/8-1" if you use imperial should cover most household DIY jobs). Some sets even cover this range in both metric and imperial measurements.

Often, you'll see sets based on their "drive" or connector size (the back end of the socket) and they're usually in imperial measurements, even though the sockets you attach could be either metric or imperial. Common "drive sizes" fall into 1/4", 1/2", 3/8" Some set will have a single "drive" size for the set. Others may use the quarter inch drive system for the small sockets, and 3/8" or half inch for the larger sized sockets for additional torque strength. Keep this in mind once you have a set, because any additional sockets need to fit your ratchet handle and other accessories. Even if you don't have the right one there are adaptors to switch between drive sizes that are obtainable from many stores and online.

Yes... simplicity..

At the most fundamental level, you insert (silicone sealer/glue/gap filler/expanding foam/etc) and it squeezes it through a nozzle (like the sauce bottle above) to apply notoriously sticky substances to whatever it is you're trying to do.

Unfortunately, it used to be simple. A $4 model was literally just as easy to use (maybe with a little less leverage) as a $30 model. Afterall.. it did the same job.

Now there's caulking guns (usually quite open in design, see image left) that use the same old rigid tubes full of (insert stuff here) as the "guns of yore", but there's also new ones that take soft plastic "sausages" in different sizes... these guns usually have rigid sealed tubes as part of the gun, rather than the consumable glue/silicone tube... and the tubes can be different sizes.. They're not too scary though, since they still have the plunger and trigger at one end, and nozzle at the other. (see middle)

Getting technological... perhaps unnecessarily:

With the rise of the cordless tools, many caulking guns are starting to be powered by batteries for an easier, and completely consistent flow rate... but you as a DIYer won't need to worry about that. I should also mention there are some caulking guns that are even powered by corded mains power, and even pneumatic (air pressure) systems. If you insist on going down this route, I recommend using whatever brand/battery system you already have with you drill. The last thing you want is your cord being smeared through your just installed silicone sealant. (Ask me how I know). Honestly, I use the most basic gun most of the time, and your skill with cleaning your work up is more important than the gun itself.

What do you use these for?

Ever had mould build up in the corners of a bathroom or kitchen? Or has the silicone "let go" and has it gone a disgusting black when it should be white or clear in places?... then you need to remove all the old silicone, clean out the mould, let it dry completely, then reapply the sealant.

Worried that you don't have enough glue on a large-area glue up of differing materials? A caulking gun is the go-to tool for most construction workers. Although please note that glues such as "liquid nails" do have their limitations too. Read the instructions so you know what you're doing.

So what have I used it for?

Mostly DIY renovations, such as installing sheet stock (Gyprock/plasterboard/etc) filling in gaps, siliconing (sealing) joints in wet areas like laundries, bathrooms and kitchens.... but when you get serious, you can use large amounts of adhesive for wood working, (especially veneering) creating water-tight, air-tight or sound proof enclosures, basically wherever something sticky and rubbery is needed.

Rotary tools (or if you prefer brand names, Dremel) are basically small, high speed motors that are ideal for small/detailed work. That said, rotary tools also include larger sized "Die grinders" which are more of a metal working, industrial tool... however, I'm going to stick with the "Dremel" style ones here.

Don't let their size fool you, they can do a huge variety of things. They can grind rocks and concrete, sharpen and cut metal with miniature angle grinder wheels, they can sand with tiny drum sanding accessories. They can polish metals and strip paint from tight spaces with tiny wire wheels, or even do small routing jobs with you guessed it, tiny router bits. This is, of course, on top of engraving too.

I've used mine for everything from engraving, cutting machine screws to length, cutting nails flush with wood, shaped and polished rocks, sanding all manner of work, cleaned off rusty parts, and even routed small adjustment slots into the wood soap cutter I've build for my better half. Small scale wood carvers, electronics enthusiasts, jewellers, and the model-building crowd are probably the most devoted rotary tool users I can think of.

There are a thousand different attachments you can get. Some add a stylus grip on a flexible attachment. Some are right-angle attachments, some make a rotary tool work like a drill press and another, a router. Some accessories clamp the rotary tool to the desk for a tiny bench grinding setup. I'm sure there are others I'm only dimly aware of.

Some important notes:

Surprisingly, it's usually better value to buy larger kits than single parts, even if they have some parts you'll never use. 

Unsurprisingly, the tiny size of the accessories means that most accessories aren't built to last, or are consumable, and get consumed rapidly with heavy use. Please keep this in mind.